Mild Supercharger Conversion - Stock Slugs/rods

[Rat Patrol 1]

Id like a suggestion ( and model #) of the most cost effective supercharger that can be run with a factory 6.1 without ANY mods to bottom end or valve train.

Target HP is 500-550 ENGINE HP.... or around 450 rwhp........Vortech or Procharger style huffer.

If it isnt possible to build a reliable s/c stock 6.1...please recommend the minimal mods required.

[CruzKing 83]

might try this, I got a heads and cam done at Arrington and ended up with 387 hp +76 hp, and 391 tq. + 63 tq, on an 09 RT 5.7. this might be more reliable.

http://modernmoparforum.com/topic/12343-arrington-performance-introduces-the-2014-2011-challenger-heads-and-cam-package/

Note the Hp 495 and tq 486 was on a 392.

[BayouTiger 88]

A base P1SC kit would likely be fine. Most of the recent piston carnage has been with 392's as they are the new kids on the block. I know of guys running 6lb kits on stock 6.1's for 5 years now. Problem is that familiarity breeds contempt and you end up pushing it a little more and more.

Bottom line is that anyone adding an aftermarket blower should be writing two $7500 checks. Have the second handy for the short block upgrade when the time comes. If you don't use it, fine, you've got a nest egg!

I really hate to see guys do a blower on a shoestring and a failure is catastrophic financially.

[CruzKing 83]

what he said^^^^^ Jay was the one who talked me out of a SC as I know very little about the new cars.. It was the right decision for me, esp. with limited funds.

[bluebyubill 3]

All I wanted was the same....a simple blower upgrade and an extra 100 - 150 horse for my 6.1 and look what happened to me (check and so it begins). Be careful about embarking on this dark path.....

[Mopar408 22]

There is no such thng as a "mild" supercharger conversion...only low boost....which gets old....have the 2nd check ready or go NA.....

[srt5939 159]

I ran the vortec V3 on my stock 6.1 for 1 year till the ring lands went. Ran it at 6psi. It's a crap shoot when you add boost.

[Hemi31 194]

At the very least I'd pull the pistons and enlarge the ring gaps. That will buy you some time. An nice set of forged rods and pistons would only run you about $1200, the crank is already forged. If you do it all yourself it should only cost you bearings and gaskets and a balance/hone job. Paying a shop and your looking at all the extra tear down and assembly labor. Honestly if it were me I'd be looking at a 100 shot of nitrous over boost if all you are looking for is 500rwhp and the block will live just fine with the stock pistons.

[LUV MY RT 2]

I ran the vortec V3 on my stock 6.1 for 1 year till the ring lands went. Ran it at 6psi. It's a crap shoot when you add boost.

Like John said. I ran my Vortech about 5000 miles on 6.5 lbs of boost before it got a couple of pistons. if you want to play around with S/C & more HP go ahead & do a forged short block & even then you are not 100% bullet proof. Like the old saying goes.Speed Is Money How Fast Do You Want To Go.

[Rat Patrol 1]

_{Hmm...sounds like there's an unacceptable risk no matter how mild the boost.}

_{Is any particular S/C more suited to the 6.1 than any other - and are there any that don't require an intercooler?}

Edited February 3, 2014 by Rat Patrol

[Speedy 247]

I've not heard of any issues with Magnuson blowers on 6.1s and their factory tune is GOOD. I may be biased though

[RT_6Speed 72]

_{Hmm...sounds like there's an unacceptable risk no matter how mild the boost.}

A lot of us have accepted it. Some other posts about having the money for a replacement short block isn't bad advice either. I expect to break mine at some point, then I can upgrade with a clear conscious

[YLWJKT 16]

I first ran a Vortex with 8 psi. and later a Magnacharger at 8 psi. on my 2009 6.1 for a total of 20,000 miles before I sold the car.

The "kid" that bought it ran it hard for around another 10k before he sold it, all with no issues.

The Vortex tune was the canned tune slightly tweaked by Ted Jannetty. The Maggie tune was Arringtons canned tune with no changes.

I'll feel pretty confident that you could run either the Vortex or Maggie on the 6.1 at 6 psi. of boost with a good tune and are unlikely to run into any issues.

[HemiSam 188]

It's gotten a bit dramatical () around here with some busted slugs recently, RP. Several 6.1's and 5.7 based motors have lived with proper tuning and a proper fuel supply (poorly wired boost-a-pumps have taken quite a few pistons). The other issue is part throttle boost during street driving. Because of the nature of the limited tuning access to certain tables, this can get you....so throttle management on the street is important (avoid part throttle boost on stock slugs), as is a proper AFR gauge/wideband and datalogging to ensure good fuel and tune are keeping the detonation to a minimum. Finally, watch your AFR during cold spells...have a winter tune. One step colder plugs can't hurt.

The centri blowers go on sale in October or so, but you can find some good deals on used ones here...shipping might could eat your lunch though. Good luck.

HS

[Rat Patrol 1]

Cheers HS..just doing my homework at this stage...

[HemiAlex 5]

I've got a novi kit that I've debated going on my 6.1. It's a refreshed stock motor with low miles and I've opened the ring gap on the top ring.

Like Erik said, I'll end up with a small plate system before I force feed the stock block. A150 shot is at least controlled heat and only at high rpm.

[Modern Muscle 14]

Ran a Vortec @ 7.5Lbs of boost for years and over 20k miles on my SRT 6.1 Magnum Johan Tuned 520RWHP no issues,

[Illinois Chaos 5]

V-3 @ 12lbs. for going on 6 years on a 100% stock 6.1 and a 100 shot since last year. The supporting mods are the key and the biggest thing is having the best tuner on planet Earth for holding it together.

[Modern Muscle 14]

Tunes dont mean squat when a injector goes south on you in the middle of a run..

To the OP as long as it is installed correctly and stay at the recomended boost levels you will be fine.

[Rat Patrol 1]

If I went this way it would be a carb blow thru system - not sure if that improves or hurts my chances of survival?

[us1champ 22]

just curious.. everyone says HAVING THE BEST TUNER.. SO.. who is the best?

[Modern Muscle 14]

IMO Johan FTW!

[HemiAlex 5]

If I went this way it would be a carb blow thru system - not sure if that improves or hurts my chances of survival?

No offense, but that is a horrid idea. Why put in a motor with EFI built just for it and then handicap it by putting a metered fuel leak?

If the answer is money, you shouldn't be putting a supercharger on it.

[Rat Patrol 1]

No offense...but I dont plan on dumping a $500 Modman intake, a $800 MSD ECU and harness, and a $1000 Pro Systems carb to satisfy a some puritan ideal that EFI is the way of some advanced civilisation.

Theres plenty of carb inducted drag pak cars running 9s and not "leaking fuel" as you say...

Yes...Im a realist and understand the Modman intake limits torque under the curve.....hence my question about using a s/c.

ATM..the car runs 112mph with nothing more than a baby cam through a 2.5" exhaust - jurys out on the new carb but I can tell it has more top end - so maybe 114mph?

We all do these things for different reasons...me? I hate the thought of an EFI intake under a 1971 hood.

I can also tune a Holley or Carter blindfolded....without paying Johan......

........so indulge me......am i likely to experience significant tuning difficulties with a blow thru set up.....is it too imprecise to guarantee survival of a stock bottom end?

Maybe Im asking too much of the expertise on here....I don't intend to be rude or demanding....just not sure who would know if you guys dont?

[HemiAlex 5]

But a drag pack isn't relying on a blow through carb. I have no problem with a carb on an NA drag car.

You'll make less power, be less able to have a system that will compensate for weather and you're operating on 3 circuits versus a proper 16x16 map. I don't even want to mention what boost will do to the situation.

Whatever suits you, but sometimes it's more expensive and challenging to use what you already have.

By the time you get a proper carb lined up (at least $600-100 on top of what you have,trust me), you'll be most of the way to buying an ms3x computer and harness.